L 

T" 



41(9V<S£t»0 



IMPROVED SYSTEM 




O F 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENT: 



BBHSTO- 



A COMPLETE ILLUSTRATION OE THE ART OE 



GARMENT CUTTING, 






B -y 



WM. R ACTON & CO, 

No. 599 BROADWAY, 

i ^ftS*— - : : 




DE VRIES 4 WOOD, Pmktbhs, 111 Fititok Stbmt, N. T. 






•Tho'sN. Dal#&€<», 

Importers &&& Maanta@tnr@f® 



-or- 



CLOTHIERS AID TAILORS' T1M1IES. 



«g.'t§, 17 & 19 WARRIiT ST., 

NEW YORK. 



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Geo. Ricumo.n 



^ 8 Rue Neuve St. Augustin, Paris. ] 



Jonx. R. Harris 
Jos. H. Browx. 



UNION ADAMS 







FURNISHING GOOD 

No. 637 BROADAWY, 



I 



Stew Y@rfe ©it?. 



THE CHEAPEST AND BEST 



PLACE 



IN 




W ¥0 8 



TO 



BUY 





AGHI 



? 



A.LI^ 



First Class New Sewing Machines Exchanged, 

for Sale, and to Rent, 



AT 



643 BROADWAY, Cor. BLEEOKER ST., NEW YORK, 

where will be found the largest and best assortment of FAMILY and MANUFACTURING 
MACHINES in the City. All persons who purchase or exchange machines at this establish- 
ment will have the privilege of exchanging for any other machine within thirty days from the 
time of purchase, without extra charge. Also second-hand Machines for sale cheap. 

This firm will take all kinds of Machines, it matters not how bad or old, in exchange for 
the following machines : 

Wheeler 6 Wilson, Grover & Baker, Singer's, Howe's, Wilcox £ Gibbs. 



Messes. SIBLEY & STOOPS have lately invented a new Patent Carriage and Caster for 
all Sewing Machines. This is so arranged as to prevent the oil from the Machine dropping on 
the floor. The Machine can lie moved from one end of the room to another with perfect 



ease. 



SIBLEY & STOOPS. 




3 



®BTO 





? 



% ^aT^ -9 



IMPORTER AND DEALER IN 



p^ i| > fpi^) t wm wf< t Bjjip 






59 WALKER STREET, 

A few doors West from Broadway, 

HNTEZ^V YORK. 

Full assortment Black and Colored FRENCH, ENGLISH and ITALIAN CLOTHS, 
SILESIAS, HOLLANDS, HAIR CLOTHS, CANVAS, TWILLED JEANS, POCKETING. 
WIGANS, Arc. Also, a choice selection of BRAIDS, BUTTONS, BINDINGS, BUCKLES. 
TWISTS, &c, &c. 

VELVETS CUT ON THE BIAS, for Collars, to match all shades. 

N. B. — Having made arrangements for the Importation of a very superior ITALIAN SEW 
1NG SILK, which has received from our best class City Trade their most decided approval, 
would respectfully solicit a trial, which I feel assured will give entire satisfaction. 






icaols 




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sitiia fmm sqi 



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mi&M i HI 






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56 WALKER STREET, 



II. M. Ml ll"LS. 
JAMES F. BILLS. 
J. N. DAVENPORT. 



1 



NEW YORK. 



ACTON'S 



IMPROVED SYSTEM 



OF 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENT, 



BEING A COMPLETE ILLUSTRATION OF -THE ART OF 



GARMENT CUTTING 



BY 

WILLIAM R. ACTON & CO., 



No. 599 BROADWAY. 



NEW YORK. 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year iS6T. by 

WILLIAM R. ACTON & CO., ' 
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, 
for the Southern District of New York. 



IMPEOVED SYSTEM 




O F 



Actual Measurement. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The revised and improved edition of " Acton's 
System of Actual Measurement " is here sub- 
mitted to the Trade. The author, awaiting popu- 
lar favor, as confidently relies upon the merit of 
his work as upon the appreciation with which for- 
mer editions have been received. 

Prejudice, clinging tenaciously to old doctrines 
and to time-wom systems, is quick to resist inno- 
vations ; but the spirit of progress demands im- 
provement in every department of science and of 
art. The masses are, therefore, to be acquainted 
with any system which will simplify and facilitate 
labor. 

The present work is of such practical utility, 
that a thorough examination must commend it 
as most admirably adapted to the present need. 
The reception and understanding of any new 
system is generally attended with difricnlties ; 
but the author has endeavored to make the lan- 
guage of his work simple, precise and accurate. 
Of a practical character, the illustrations are 
adapted to fix in the mind the principles they 
involve, at the same time, to interest the learner 
while exercising; his ingenuitv. The common 
practice of merely performing mechanical opera- 
tions, the principles of which are not thoroughly 
comprehended, is most unsatisfactory. An at- 



tempt has therefore been made in this work to 
explain every operation, so as to secure to the 
learner a knowledge of the subject. 

To cite the numerous testimonials voluntarily 
given in favor of "Acton's System of Actual 
Measurement " would occupy much space. The 
work is well worthy of acceptance, and is allowed 
to speak through its own merits, and thus awaken 
the public attention. 



NOTE. 
"We desire to offer an apology to a number of 
our old subscribers for the delay which has at- 
tended the publishing of the present edition. — 
Since we began the diagrams for this work, we 
have also invented and published five separate 
charts for garment cutting. These charts have 
already become very popular, and are used and 
highly spoken of in all the principal establish- 
ments in J^ew York, and are rapidly gaining a 
wide-spread popularity throughout the whole 
country. We feel confident that the benefit de- 
rived from these charts will more than suffice for 
the inconvenience occasioned by the delay in 
bringing out our new work on measurement. 
In another portion of this book our new chart? 
are spoken of at greater length, and a number of 
testimonials are published showing in what esti- 
mation these works are held by the leading es- 
tablishments in New York city. 






-^3: 



A<T('V> IMPROVED SVSTKM « »F A.CTUAL MEASUREMENT, 



Directions for Applying the Instrument 
to the Body. 

It is important to have the Measuring Instru- 
ment properly adjusted to the Body. 

This is done by bringing it close under the left 
arm from the front, while you bring the long strap 
horizontally from one arm-pit to the other, passing 
it round in front of the right arm to the short 
strap ou the shoulder, where you will buckle it as 
tightly as the client wishes his coat to fit. 

See that the brass plate, on which are placed 
the upper and lower pivots, is perpendicular with 
the front of the arm, and that the strap comes up 
close under the arm, without caring whether the 
scye reaches there or not. 

o 

Directions for Taking the Measure. 

1. Measure round the Breast. 

2. " " " Waist. 

3. " " " Hip. 

Now apply the Instrument as above directed, 
and as represented in figs. A and B, Plate 1. 

4. Measure from one to two. 

5. Continue to 3 or natural waist. 

6. " 4 or length of waist. 

7. " 5 or length of skirt. 

8. Find measure on strap at 2. 

9. " " " at 1. 

10. Bring the Measure from the upper pivot 

over the most prominent part of the 
shoulder to 2. 

11. Bring the Measure from the upper pivot 

over the lower pivot of the shoulder to 
6 on the strap. 

12. Measure from lower pivot to 2. 

13. " " " 3. 

14. " " " 4 

You are now done with the Instrument in tak- 
ing measures for a dress, frock, sack and overcoat. 

15. Measure from the centre of back, to the 

shoulder joints, for width of back. 

16. Continue to the elbow. 

17. " " wrist. 

18. Measure round the elbow. 

19. " " wrist or hand. 

It will be seen that there are only seven meas- 
ures taken in connection with the Instrument; 
they can be taken without it, but we recommend 
its use. The pivots may be artificially made, and 
the same measures taken and used in like manner 



in drafting. You may get the depth of scye by 
bringing the measure from the collar seam in front 
and around under both arms across, while you 
marl: at the top of the tape measure, where it 
crosses the back seam, and thence lay ruler hori- 
zontally under the arm to the front of scye, where 
you make a mark for upper starting point, and 
six inches to the hollow of the waist, perpendicu- 
larly with the front of arm. 

It is suggested that a better starting point, to 
get the length of sleeve, is at the side of the neck 
from the collar seam, thence to the wrist, while the 
arm hangs naturally. 

PLATE II, FIGURE 2. 

On this Plate you have an example of a meas- 
ure taken as directed, and numbered on page 4, 
represented on Plate I, Figures A and B ; the 
back in all positions relative to the forepart, and 
the application of the measure so as to give a 
general outline to the working of the system ; but 
in the foregoing pages we will give 'further expla- 
nations, in detail, as to the different kinds and 
styles of garments. 

PLATE III, FIGURE I. 
Back of Frock or Dress Coat. 

Lines A and G are base lines.. From I ap- 
ply the 4th, oth, 6th and 7th measures, for 
points 2, 3, 4 and 5, and project lines C, D, E. 
Go out on E, the 8th measure, to point 8, 
(while there mark 6) and draw line F to point 1. 
From point 2 go out on line E, the 15th measure, 
for net width of back to point 7; thence draw 
line I through point 9 ; thence go up 24, inches 
(more or less) and draw line H to point 10 ; 
go out from line I to point 11 about f- of an 
inch. The width of back at top and at the 
waist, as well as the back scye, can be cut ac- 
cording to fancy. From line G to point 10 is 
about £ inch. It is well to leave a little at the 
top, until you form neck gorge and forepart. J 
K is formed as per draft. 

Figure 2.— -Fore-part of Dress or Frock Coat. 

Lines A and B are base lines. Apply the 9th 
measure from O to I ; there draw line C, meas- 
ure in 3 inches to point 2 ; thence measure in one- 
half of the first or breast measure to point 3 ; thence 
measure out the Sth to point 4, and draw the 
pivot line D, across line C to point 5, which is 
6 inches to point 4 (which points occupy the same 



ACTONS' IMPROVED SYSTEM OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



relative position on the cloth, that the pivots on 
the measuring Instrument do, when applied to 
the body.) 

Go from point 6 to 7, on line A, the difference 
between the 9th and 10th measures, and draw 
line E ; measure down one-half the 18th measure to 
point 8 ; thence draw line F ; apply the 9th meas- 
ure on line E, from point 4, adding -| inch for 
seams to point 7 ; thence lay the top of the back, 
and apply the 10th measure for the centre of 
shoulder, and the 11th for slope on lower point, 
adding j inch on these measures, as in t'he 9th. 
The difference between the 8th and 15th measures 
is the diameter of the scye, from points 10 to 11. 
Through these points draw curves I and J, as per 
draft, running about one inch front of line D, for 
seams. It will be seen that the upper point or 
side-seam is raised about f or 4; inch above the 
lower point of the back scye, so as to have line E 
of the back, and C of the forepart to come together 
when made up. Apply the 12th, 13th and 14th 
measures as represented on Plate II, adding J inch 
to the 12th, and \ inch to the 13th and 14th 
measures, and form curve K ; get the length of 
side-seam by the back ; from point 12 to 13 is \\ 
inches; the length of side-seam from point 12 to 
line C, will indicate the length of fore-part in front, 
from points 1 to 14 ; thence draw line L, and curve 
M from neck gorge, and apply the 18th measure 
adding one inch to point 9 ; thence form curve N". 

Figure 3.— Sleeve of Frock or Dress Coat. 
The plan of drafting this will be given in our 
explanations of Plate IV, Figure 8. 
Figure 4.— Frock Coat Skirt. 

Draw line A about 14/ inches from edge of cloth, 
and measure up on this line the length of the back 
skirt ; then lay the fore-part so as to get the front 
edge of lapel on a range with the line, and while 
there mark line B by the forepart; then lay the 
side-body in a closing position, as represented, and 
mark C and D for spring sweep curve E, by the 
length of A and D. 

Figure 5 and 6. — Lapel and Collar. 

The Lapel in width is 24, at top, 3 in the centre, 
and 2 at bottom, while the width of Collar is made 
to conform to fashion or taste. 

Figure 7.— Dress Coat Skirt. 
The side-body and fore-part are laid in the posi- 
tion as represented, and while there mark curve 



0, dropping curve P the same amount you intend 
to put in for fullness or gores. The spring curve 
N is a continuation of the curve K, of the side- 
seam ; length of strap is about 5 inches, and curves 
Q and R are according to fashion or taste. 

PLATE IV, FIGURE 8. 

Sleeves. 
Before this can be drafted the fore-part must be 
cut out ; then measure the circumference and diam- 
eter of scye ; make centre of scye in front about £ 
inch up from point 4 or upper pivot, and from 
thence to the back scye ; apply \ the circumfer- 
ence of the scye measure, and then make a notch 
for the back-centre. Draw line A, at edge of cloth, 
and B for base line ; go down on A from O, the 
diameter of scye to point 2 ; thence draw line C, 
and measure in half the circumference of scye, and 
4, inch ; then draw line D at right angles with line 
B ; then lay the front-centre of scye at point 2, and 
the lower point of shoulder, so as to strike line B 
at point 4, and mark curve E ; then bring the 
back-centre point 5 to line D, keeping line F, of 
the back, on a range with line D, while you bring 
the lower point of shoulder, and that part of scye 
together iu a closing position, as represented, and 
by it mark curve G and F ; then mark H and I, as 
per draft. The underside, at top, is about one- 
half of the scye ; an allowance to be made for 
seams. 

Figures 9 and 10, — Back and Fore-part of Paletot 
Overcoat. 

The Back is drafted on the same principle as 

a Frock, except that a half inch is added at the 

back seam, and £ at the top of the back ; 

make the back scye, and at the waist, wider. 

The fore-part is drafted, the same as a Frock 

coat, applying the measures precisely in the same 

manner ; afterwards £ inch must be added u> 

the shoulder, and the front point of shoulder 

thrown forward £ of an inch, the same as was 

added to the top of back ; the scye is then cleaned 

out, so as to make it measure 1 J inches more than 

for a body coat. The Sleeve, as in figure 8. 

Collar, as per fashion. 

Figures II and 12.— Back and Fore-part of Double- 
Breasted Body-Sack or London Pea Jacket. 
This is drafted as represented, but will be 
more fully treated on in explanation of next Plate. 



s 



ACTON'S IMPROVED SVSIKM OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



PLATE V, FIGURE 13. 
Back of Body Sack. 

Line A is a fold of cloth ; B, base line ; go from 

O to point 2, for depth of scye ; continue down 

for length of coat ; project line C, and apply the 

Sth or lower strap measure, and mark points 3, 

4 and 6. From point 3, draw line E ; point 4 is 

the net width of Back ; from it draw line D, and 

go up from point 5, 3£ to 4 inches to point 7 ; from 

line D, to point 8 is two inches, and from point 5, 

to line C is one inch ; the width at top. and bot- 

tom is made to suit the taste of the cutter. Form 

curve K and I, as per draft ; go out from line to * 

24, to 3 inches. 

Figure 14,— Fore-part of S. B. Body Sack. 
A is base line ; B is drawn about two inches in, 
from edge of cloth ; on it, apply the 9th or upper 
strap measure, from to point 2 ; thence draw 
line C, and come in to point 3, two and a half 
inches ; thence apply the first or breast measure 
to point 4 ; thence apply the Sth (or lower strap 
measure) to point 5 ; thence project line D, to 
point 6 ; thence go out to point 7, the difference 
between the 9th and 10th measures, and line E ; 
and apply the 9th, 10th and 11th measures in the 
same manner as described in explanation. Plate 
III, Figure 2, as also the neck gorge. JS r ow lay 
line C of the back, on line C of the fore-part, with 
point 2 resting on point 4. On line M form line 
B ; apply the third or hip measure to * of the 
back, moving the back to correspond ; about £■ of 
an inch is added to the upper part of the side-seam, 
to give ease between the shoulders ; curves L and 
K are drawn as per draft. 

Figure 18.— Sleeve of Body Sack. 
This is drafted on the same principle as that of 
Figure 8, on Plate IV. 

Figures 16, 17 and 18.— English Walking Coat. 

This garment, it will be seen, may be cut with 
or without a seam in the back. The Fore-part 
and Skirt are of a piece, and are drafted on the 
same principle as the Body Paletot, described on 
Plate IV, Figure 10. 

PLATE VI, FIGURES 19. 20 AND 21. 
Over Sack. 

This is drafted the same as a Body Sack, ex- 
cepting that you make an addition of half an 
inch to the back, on line A, and £ at the top of 



back, and through the front point of shoulder the 
same ; add £ inch across the shoulder, and dress 
out the scye, so as to make it measure 14, inches 
more than a body coat. The measures are to be 
taken the same as a body sack, except that the 
breast and hip are to be taken over the coat, and 
if not, two inches must be added to them. The 
lapel, Maps and collar to be made according to 
fashion and taste. 

PLATE VII, FIGURES 22 AND 23. 
Bouble-Breasted Oversack. 
The back and sleeve the same as Figures 19 and 
21, Plate VI. The collar is drafted of a piece 
with the fore-part ; the gore or cut taken out in 
the manner represented, so that when it is brought 
together it will bring the neck gorge to its proper 
place at the stand-up of the collar. 

Figures 24, 25 and 26. 

"We give these to make up the variety. The 
style may be adapted or varied to suit the taste 
of the cutter. 

PLATE VIII, FIGURE 27. 
S. B. Oversack, with Fly. 
Draft, as represented, the back and sleeve as 
heretofore described. 

Figure 28. — Back and Fore-part. 

We reproduce this draft here, to show one of the 
many old plans by which we have tried to estab- 
lish the shoulder point, but have long since dis- 
carded it, as we found it would only answer for 
certain forms. This plan has been picked up by 
one of the many cheap rule men in the western 
part of this state, and published as his own — he 
is welcome to it. The principle is to continue line 
I, of the back, as seen in draft, applying the meas 
ures for lengths in usual way, relying on this line, 
in all cases, for the pitch of shoulder. 

Figure 29.— Back and Fore-part of Frock or Dress Coat. 

It will be seen that this is drafted in the same 
manner as the foregoing, until you come to the 
side-seam, when you will ascertain the difference 
between the 12th and loth measures, and then 
dispose of these amounts equally between the 
body and fore-part, and the cut under the scye, 
as represented in draft. This is thought by some 
to be better than to take it all out at the side- 
seams. 



ACTON'S IMPROVED SYSTEM OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



9 



PLATE IX, FIGURE 30. 
Cape for Overcoat. 

Lay the back and fore-part on the cloth, as rep- 
resented, and measure down on the fold of the 
cloth for length ; then sweep the lower curve, mak- 
ing the neck as a pivot ; let it be marked about 
two inches longer over the shoulder, than at the 
back and front. 

Figures 31, 32, 33 and 34.— Business or Office Sack. 

To draft this garment you will select a scale 
corresponding with the Breast-measure, or divide 
the measure into 48 equal parts, and apply 
the scale according to the numbers on the Diagram . 

Note. — The Pattterns from which this draft 
is taken, was kindly presented to us by Messrs. 
Jas. A. Clark & Sons, who represent one of our 
most respected Broadway establishments. 

PLATE X, FIGURES 35, 36, 37 AND 38. 
Talma. 

This is drafted by the tape measure, and will 
produce a 36 Garment. To enlarge or diminish 
the size, you have only to reduce each piece to a 
square ; then apply the scales from point to point, 
and mark accordingly. On this principle any 
pattern may be reproduced, and made longer or 
smaller, as may be desired. 

PLATE XI, FIGURES 39, 40, 41, 42, 43 AND 44. 

Variety of Styles of Vests. 

These we copy from the journal de Paris, as 
also the style of close-fitting Pants, 45 and 46 — 47 
and 48 is a medium style of our own. Any, or 
all of these drafts can be made by our scales. For 
the Vests, select a scale to correspond with the 
breast-measure ; and for the Pants, one to corres- 
pond with the hip, and apply as per draft. 

PLATE XII, FIGURE 49. 
Hamlet Cloak. 

This style of cloak we brought out in 1848, in a 
work we then published in Philadelphia; but, as 
loose Garments were not much in vogue at that 
time, it was not generally adopted, although it was, 
and is, a very graceful and comfortable, as well as 
economical article of dress — 2$ to 3 yards being 
sufficient to cut one. 



Directions for Measuring and Drafting. 

First, measure from back of neck, at the collar 
seam, to the lower part of the knee joint Second, 
measure from the collar seam, at side of the neck, 
over tip of the shoulder to the knuckles of right 
hand. Third, measure the size required round 
the neck. 

Line B the fold of cloth. From point 5 to 4 
is the length of cloak, less three-fourths of an inch ; 
from 4 to 3 is l-6th of the neck measure. Make 
3 a pivot, and from it sweep curve from 4, through 
6, to 2, for the neck. From 4 to 8 is to be about 
\ th of an inch ; from 2 to 9 the same. From 3 
sweep from 5 through 18, 7 and 19, to 1 ; 10 is 
half distance from 5 to 7 ; 11 is half distance from 

1 to 7. From 5 to 18 is 26 inches; from 1 to 19 
the same ; 15 is half distance from 6 to 13 ; 14 is 
half distance from 6 to 12. Draw lines C D irom 
18 and 19, through 14 and 15, to 16. From 17 
to 20 is about 18 inches, and 21 the same. From 
6 sweep curve G by the length of sleeve. The 
gusset, L, is to be sewed in at 14 and 15, to give 
play to the sleeve; it is 3 inches from 3 to 4, and 

2 inches from 1 to 2. Gore K is sewed in a slit, 
cut at 6, to give form to neck gorge. From 1 to 
2 is about an inch, and to 3, an inch and a half. 
J represents the collar. 

The bottom of the cloak, front edge, and, also, 
the bottom of sleeve, are edged with wide black 
silk braid, or lace, from half an inch to three- 
fourths from the edge. The front of the garment 
is closed with three loops and buttons on each side, 
or with cord and tassel. 

These cloaks not only afford great comfort, but 
are likewise economical, two and a half yards to 
three-fourths, being ample cloth. The utility and 
convenience of this garment are such as to re- 
commend it, apart from its elegant appearance. 



-:o:- 



AVe respectfully call the attention of our patrons 
and the public, to the following advertisements: 
The Empire Sewing Machine Co. ; Sibley & 
Stoops ; The Burlock Manufacturing Co. ; E. S. 
Dryden; H. M. Nichols&Co.; Thos. N.Dale & Co. 
and Union Adams, believing that we thereby 
render them a service, by directing them to where 
the best articles of their respective productions 
can be had at the lowest rates, and where integrity 
and affability characterize them in their business 
transactions. 



10 ACTON'S IMPROVED SYSTEM OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



IMPORTANT TO TAILORS. 



ACTON'S NEW WORK ON GARMENT CUTTING. 

Office, 599 Broadway, New York. 

Acton's Dress and Frock Coat, Sack, Pants, Vest, Ladies' 

Dress and Habit Charts. 



IMMENSE SAVING OF TIME, GREAT ACCURACY OF FIT, & EXTREME SIMPLICITY. 



It lias been but a few months since these ?wvel Charts have been introduced to public notice, and 
they have been already thoroughly tested by the leading- Houses of New York city and vicinity, 
whose testimonials, hereunto annexed, must satisfy all that they are indispensable to a com- 
plete Tailoring Establishment. By using them, the cutter has his calculations already perfected, 
and in rive minutes can cut the garment, without the slightest risk of error, or in one-fourth of the 
time required by ordinary modes. These Charts are adapted to every variety of style and fashion, 
either for body or overcoats (as low as 25 breast measure,) and are designed to be cut directly 
from the cloth, without the necessity of first cutting a pattern in paper; nothing is wasted, and 
the garment can be taken out where it is wanted, saving every inch of cloth. 

These Charts are elegantly lithographed and printed on heavy colored Bristol board. The 
Coat and Sack Charts are in three pieces, and can be used in the formation of curves as a ruler, 
as well as a rule. 

Full instructions will be found printed on each Chart, in a manner so simple that all can use 
them without oral instructions. 

It is well known to the trade that Mr. Acton has devoted some twenty years of his life to the 
complications of the Art of Garment Cutting, and although the various works he has from time 
to time published, have been favorably received and highly appreciated, he now promises his old 
patrons, as well as new ones, that they will find these works to far surpass anything he has yet offered. 

The answers to the following autograph letter from many of the Leading Houses of New York 

city, will show in what estimation these works are held. These testimonials might be largely 

increased if space would permit : 

New York, June 1st, 1866. 

Gkxtlesien: Somo two or three months have now elasped since our Chart* were introduced into your establishment, dur- 
ing which time you have had opportunity to test their value. As it is our object to send out these works to all parts of the 
United States and elsewhere, for the information of those to whom they have not become known, we simple ask you to give 
a statement as to their utility. 

Verv respectfully vours, ic * 

W. R Acton & Co. 



New York, June ith, 1866. i New York, June -Uh, 1866. 

Messrs. Acton & Co. Messes Acton & Co. 

Gents— We take pleasure in recommending ■■Acton's New I Gents — We are using to our entire satisfaction the Charts 



Charts " to the trade, as a handy, expeditious and accurate plan 
for garment cutting. 

Dubois & Ferris. Xo. 756 Broadway. 



New York, June ith., 1866. 
Mbssrs. W. R. Acton & Co. 

We find your Charts to be complete in all their arrange- 
ments, producing the most satisfactory resules. 

JosEP.f Mum, Merchant Tailor, 
302 Broa Iway. 



lately published by Acton £ Co , and take pleasure in recom- 
mending them to the trade. 

T n m ) Cutters for 

L. H. Thompson, ( , „ „. „ i ~ 



New York, June 4th, 1866. 
Messrs. Acton & Co. 

Gents — We are using your 'Charts" and find them a per- 
fect success. 

Jas. A. Clark & Sons, 

742 Broadway. 



New York, June 4th, 1866. 
Messes. W. R. Acton & Co. 

Gentlemen — "Acton's New Charts" exceed any thing we 
have ever used which have been offered to the trade. 



D. G. Sanguinettl, 
F. Netzel, 
H. Dodman, 




ACTON'S IMPROVED SYSTEM OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



11 



Cutters for 
Croney & Lent, 
758 Broadway. 



New York, June 5th, 1866. 
Acton's " New Charts " are handsome, useful and expeditious. 

W. H. Van Yaler, 

455 Hudson St., N. T. 



New York, June 5th, 1866. 
Messes. Acton & Co. 

Gents — We cheerfully recommend your New Charts to all 
those who wish to produce elegant and stylish garments. 
Francis Wagnee, ") 
R. Watkinson, I Cutters for 
D. A. Roberts. I Brooks Bros., 
¥m. A. Stuaet, j Broadway, 
W. Winter. | cor. Grand st. 

Abner Osborne, 



New York, June 5th, 1866. 
Messrs. Acton & Co. 

I have been using your Charts for some months, and must 
say they are the most expeditious and complete articles I have 
ever used for cutting. 

Peter J. Post, 

151 Eighth A v., N. T. 



New York, June 5th, 1866. 
Messes. W. R. Acton & Co. 

I am perfectly delighted with the Charts; 1 find them more 
satisfactory than anything I have ever used; in fact, I have 
quit trying on Coats, before they are finished, altogether since 
I adopted them. 

I. De Bois, 

No. 2 Clinton Place, N. T. 



New York, June 5th, 1866. 
Messrs. Aoton & Co 

We find your Charts to exceed anything we have yet seen. 
They produce an elegant fitting garment, and are the quickest 
article extant. 

W. L. Knowles, 

No. 1 Clinton Place, N. T. 
Eugene Hagan, Cutter. 



New York, June 6th, 1866. 
Messrs. Acton & Co. 

Gents — I take pleasure in recommending Acton's New Charts 
for Garment Cutting; I am using them and find them superior 
to any rule I have seen. 

Charles Shafer, 

No. 290 Spring St., N. T. 




New York, June 6lh, 1 866. 
Messrs Acton & Co. 

Gents — I have used your Charts for cutting garments, and 
find them the most expeditious work for producing a well 
balanced and good fitting Coat that I have ever met with. 

W. C. Barwis, of firm of 
Hascy & Barwis, 542 & 544 Broadway. 



New York, June 6th, 1866. 
Messrs. Acton & Co. 

We find Acton's New Charts perfect and reliable in all res- 
pects, and cheerfully recommend them to the trade, as the 
latest and best in the art of Garment Cutting. 



Richard Sowdon, 
J. Bernard, 
J. C. Allvater, 
John H. Peatt. 



Cutters for 

L. T. Brownel, 

503 Broadway, 

N. Y. 



New York, June 6th, 1866. 
Messrs. W. R. Acton & Co. 

Gents — I have used Acton's System of Measurement for 16 
or 17 vears, and have taken all the improvements he has made 
from time to time, and I take pleasure in stating that it is the 
most complete system, in all respects, that has come under my 
observation. I have also taken his New Charts, and find them 
admirably adapted for the purpose intended. 

E. J. HUTCHTNING, 

No. 85 S. 7th Street, Brooklyn, E. D. 



Troy, New York, Dec. \5th, 1866. 
W. R. AciON k Co., 599 Broadway, N. T. 

Gentlemen — At your request I take pleasure in stating that 
I have used your System of Cutting for the last 15 years, and 
prefer it to all others that I have tried, and cheerfully recom- 
mend it to the trade. Your Coat and Test Charts are the best 
thing of the kind I know of. 

Tours truly. 

R. Montague. 



Troy. New York, Dec. 15th, 1S65. 
W. R. Acton & Co., 599 Broadway, N. T. 

Gent6 — I take pleasure in stating that we have been using 
your System of Cutting for more than a year, and have found 
it a very reliable guide for drafting. 

During the time we have been using it, we have been very 
successful in making good fits, and we can confidently recom- 
mend it to the trade as a safe practical system. 
Tours truly. 

W. A M. Lennox. 



I cheerfully indorse the above, having used some of said 
Charts. 

J. S. Toret, River Street. Trov. N. Y. 



I fully indorse the above, having used both the Sack and 
Vest Charts. 

T. McOartat. 

148 River Street. Trov. N. Y. 



12 



ACToX'S IMPROVED SYSTEM OF ACTUAL MEASUREMENT. 



THE PATENT AND COPYRIGHTS 
Eor all these works have been secured. State, 
City, and County Eights will be sold. Terms 
made known on application ; also, wholesale 
prices to Agents. 

As we desire a speedy introduction of these 
works throughout the country, we will give 
Agents the sole privilege to sell in their own town 
or county ; and as long as they persevere and push 
business, we guarantee them not to employ any 
other party to sell, in their boundary, during the 
time said Agent attends promptly to his business. 
No certificate of Agency will be given unless the 
party applying shall purchase one or more sets of 
the Charts, as samples to exhibit and obtain or- 
ders from. 

:o: 

RETAIL PRICES. 
New System of Actual Measurement, 

complete, 20.00 

When oral instructions are required, an addi- 
tional charge of §5 will be made. 

Chart for Frock and Dress Coat (single) . $6.00 

Chart for Sack Coat (single) 6.00 

Chart for Pants (single) 5.00 

Chart for Vest (single) 5.00 

Whole set 20.00 

Chart for Cutting Ladies' Dresses or 

Habits, on the same principle, 5.00 



Our Patrons at a distance recpiiring any infor- 
mation appertaining to the trade, or having orders 
to execute in the city, are informed that we are 
prepared to select lor them the best articles at the 
lowest market price. 

"We are also prepared to furnish Cutters, or to 
negotiate for engagements for the same. 

Instructions given at the office, in day or eve- 
ning classes. 

We can supply our patrons with the Fashions 
of any of the Reporters at the regular rates. 

:o:- — 

Directions tor Sending Money. 

Send all money in Registered Letters, or obtain 
a Post-Office Money Order, or Draft on New 
York, payable to our order, or per Express — by 
sending by either mode no loss can possibty occur. 
As we take the responsibility for their safe deliv- 
ery, we guarantee the safe delivery of our goods 
to any address. When orders are sent, it is par- 
ticularly requested that you mention by which 
Express Co. you wish it to be sent. Entire safety 
of all Money Orders sent to us is guaranteed, if 
forwarded as per direction. 
Address, 

W. R. ACTON & CO., 

599 Broailway, N. T. 



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fefiitt Vetoing HJatjjitu Company. 



o f-iti o E 



616 BROADWAY, 




NEW YORK. 




SMALL TAILORING MACHINE. 

This Machine is a great favorite with ladies, it runs 
light, makes, comparatively, no noise, has strength and 
capacity for tailoring work in general ; for family sewing 
it has no superior. 




LARCE TAILORINC MACHINE. 

This Machine has strength and capacity to manufac- 
ture the very heaviest of goods ; its sewing qualities are 
perfect. As a Tailoring Machine, it has no rival. 



THESE MACHINES 

are precisely alike in all their mechanical construction,, differing only in size. The No. 2 
has an arm eight inches in length. No. 3 has an arm of twelve inches, which is all- 
sufficient for the heaviest and bulkiest of goods; it has a straight needle, perpendicular 
action and friction wheel feed, makes the lock or shuttle stitch, which will neither rip 
nor ravel, is alike on both sides, and performs perfect sewing on every description of 
material with linen, cotton, or silk thread. It has been examined by the most profound 
experts, and pronounced to be simplicity and perfection combined. 

Agents wanted. For terms , etc., apply at the principal office of 

EMPIRE SEWING MACHINE CO., 

616 BROADWAY, K. Y. 



e en au 667 4 • 



t n E3 



Burlock Manufacturing Company. 

MANUFACTURERS OF THE 

DIAMOND o SHIRT, 

i CHAMBERS STBEET. 



VJJETVST YORK, 

Beg to state that their Shirts are most particularly adapted to the finest 
Custom and Tailoring Trade. The materials used are 

NEW YORK MILLS 

WAM8UTTA, BATES, 

and other sup wl«* LIN > Thelr 

manufacture is superintended with the greatest care, and th.ir PER- 
FECT FIT is guaranteed 



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